If ever proof was needed that the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, chef Lin Huang, former Head Chef at elEfante has set up stall one street over in Xinle Lu. Opened in May, the restaurant is pretty much booked out at the weekends already so don’t expect to turn up at 8pm and get a seat.
It’s good. So good we visited on consecutive Saturdays and we were back there last Thursday too. It’s safe to say that we now have our favourite dishes and pretty much everything we ate on the first visit is on the list, which goes to show you should follow your instincts.
The room is simple with black and white tiles on the floor, bare brick walls and a large counter in the middle seating 12-14 people around the bar/prep area. There are tables to sit at too, but if there are only two of you why not sit at the counter and watch the action in the kitchen. It never ceases to amaze me when we are offered the counter seats as a last resort…
The menu is split into sections; things to pick at, small bites, vegetables, fish, meat, daily special and sweets. There’s also a section for imported tinned tapas which for some reason we always avoid. Tapas are served in portions of four but the staff offered to give us half portions which we loved because it meant we could order more dishes.
Steak Giros (115RMB 4 pieces) are served on a small pita and topped with hummus, tzatiki and chips. It’s a messy one but oh so good and you don’t mind the juice dripping down your fingers.
The Baby Potato Skins (55RMB) are a delightful combo of crispy, greasy, cheesy, garlicky, crunchy bacon topped skins with a side serve of sour cream. It’s a hard one to share.
Spicy Clams with Thai Basil (68RMB) come without bread so order up ahead of time because you’ll need something to mop up the buttery liquor from the bowl. I declared this ‘the best clams ever’ to which Rich smugly told me that we very rarely go wrong when he orders…..
Please order the tomato salad (38RMB) if you go. It looks simple but your taste buds will thank you for it – sweet, sweet tomatoes with slightly pickled red onions sitting on a small pool of balsamic and olive oil.
Spicy Fried Chicken (78RMB) we only ordered the first time. Rich liked it more than me – it’s sticky and spicy but with so many other stars on the menu it’s not our first round choice.
Steak Tartare (58RMB) appears under the Small Bites section of the menu. We had this on our second and third visits and it’s one that we will order again. Such a simple dish but without top quality ingredients it can go horribly wrong. This is the best we’ve have in Shanghai.
Ham Gougeres (40RMB) were probably our least favourite thing on the menu although they were perfectly acceptable if a little bland. I suppose if there were a few of you looking through the menu you could order a portion to nibble on with a glass of wine. They didn’t rock our world.
Unlike these little fellas who did. The Kingfish tostadas (88RMB, 4 pieces) we have ordered every time and are a non-negotiable item on the menu IMHO.
Probably the least successful dish we ordered was the smoked lamb ribs. As is often the case the lamb was mutton and they were just too fatty to enjoy.
Finally the desserts. They all come in portions of four so be sure to say you want a half portion if you want to try more than a couple.
The Tiramasu Fingers (38RMB) should come with a warning – you’ll want more. In fact don’t bother with the half portion of this one. Underneath the cream is a macerated cherry and it’s a divine mouthful let me tell you.
As soon as I was told Scroppino (40RMB) was lemon sorbet it was all over. Candied orange and the lightest lemony ending to a meal you could wish for.
As an incentive to return we have yet to try the Praline Icecream Crepes, Ferraro Toasts or the Hot Chocolate shots.
And return we will – if only for the draft Asahi served in ice cold glass handled beer mugs just as it should be.
It’s still early days and the front of house staff seem to be a little anxious when it comes to taking reservations and seating you. Order a few dishes at a time in combinations you are happy to eat together and the food will arrive quickly and hopefully you will be as wow-ed as we have been.
In the wash up:
What’s good: Sitting at the counter watching the prep work, good value for money, great tapas in an easy going atmosphere
What’s not great: I must have a thing about toilets because they always get a mention in this bit. I’m not a big fan of unisex toilets and there’s only one in the restaurant. That’s the worst thing I could come up with.
Expect to pay 600-800RMB for two with wine/beer/sangria if you don’t go too mad on the ordering.
English menu, English spoken.
Address: 136 Xinle Lu, near Xiangyang Lu, Xuhui (Former French Concession)
Open: 6pm-1am, Tuesday – Sunday
Telephone: 5404 2327